The Fall-Winter collection 2013/2014 draws inspiration from Claude Chabrol’s movie, La Cérémonie. It stages a game between outfits and schizophrenia. The game of a domestic worker who wears her upper middle-class employer’s wardrobe, combining it with her own clothing.
The hybrid style creates a quirky appeal that turns heads, marked with intriguing twists of elegance. The combination is invigorating. It raises the question of what is elegance, and what are its therapeutic properties.
Fabrics are at the heart of Véronique Leroy’s work, dictating the architecture of her designs. They are always unusual, always surprising. Matt materials fuse with shiny fabrics. A heavy whipcord calls for construction. A patent leather Prince of Wales or a vibrant camouflage effect leaves us wondering. A terrycloth type sheepskin – her favorite material – intrigues. A bi-colored perforated leather grid dictates the lines. A wool and silk 40s type fabric with flame accents can be taken seriously or with humor. A bi-colored ottoman or coated astrakhan knit leaves us confused. Optical white satin and poplin play their conventionally elegant notes in counterpoint.
The palette includes shiny and matt colors – copper kaki, golden, burgundy, navy, black – with lively touches of optical white and pop geranium.
We recognize Véronique Leroy’s signature with her shifting architecture, an off-center shoulder that gives the impression of fragile balance. Both powerful and light, coats, jackets are designed with cubic forms that seem alive, or with more voluminous, curvy silhouettes, and loose-fitting backs.
Diamond-shaped pencil skirts puff out from the hips. Graphic, oversized pockets and exaggerated
cuffs punctuate the architecture. A removable, pointed collar adds an elegant finish to the look. A high-worn belt transforms the silhouette. Layering is important and it dynamically emphasizes the unusual, the non-conventional. Boots are zipped with wedged soles – signed Michel Vivien – with tri-color weaves that produce a tweed effect. Bi-colored – toes and heels – definitely graphic.
Essential elegant notes: gloves – by Agnelle – flaunt vibrant tri-color weaves, dressy fringes or fur or show-off very high, sexy sleeves in bi-colored lambskin, with a bracelet tab at the wrist.
Two jewelry accessories use materials from the wardrobe: the hand belt in lambskin, cotton poplin or satin and the ankle bracelet, like a cuff on boots with golden metal and black plates.