28 February 2013

Mugler AW13

Catwalk pictures from Mugler AW13 show in Paris (27th of February, show which closed the second day of Paris Fashion Week).

About the collection:
For Autumn Winter 2013-14, MUGLER's creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Sebastien Peigné embark upon a transcontinental trip celebrating the bygone glamour of air travel. In a cinematic gesture evoking the lifestyles of the jet set, a bold and sculptural garderobe captures the curved symmetries of Brasília. "We wanted to explore the idea of travel through time, in style," explains Formichetti. "It led us to the structures of the airport, its empty spaces entwined with the elegance of a woman." The silhouette is positively aerodynamic.

With this first-class traveller in mind, the MUGLER woman is cocooned in sleek tailleur - a sensual uniform with arching shoulders in textures both opulent and industrial. Plastic tones of coral, sea foam and pale yellow intersect black, white and a myriad of greys. The lost art of dressing returns in ultra-feminine architectures with elements of the airport itself appearing throughout - from a series of skirt suits in vermiculite cashmere and pilled wool to the porthole cut-outs of a rose-coloured mink blouse.

Paying homage to the heroines of film noir, oil-slick patent is sliced into 50's-style five-pocket trousers and a flared wrap jacket, its matching pencil skirt extending wing-like to lie flat across the hips. Divided in a shimmy of coral marabou, a cement-coloured top embodies the duality of hard and soft, as does plush angora knitwear paired with slick leather leggings. Alluding to both pilot and passenger, 'cagoule' helmets and supple leather head-scarves are an elegant complement to monochrome ensembles, from optic white pant-suits in twill gazar to the nubby warmth of thick pile shearling. Cocktail hour calls for strapless crêpe shifts and a passage of flouncing satin that follows the sinuous curves of modernist furniture, trimmed in a multicoloured 'giga' print neoprene. Reminiscent of a headset, biomorphic earrings by Alexis Bittar for MUGLER encircle the ears in polished steel.

"It's a whirlwind of cultures caught in the jet stream" says Formichetti.

"She could step off that plane back into the sixties, or walk through the sliding doors into tomorrow."

MUGLER's creative director Nicola Formichetti & designer Sebastien Peigné

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